In ,
Jim Lesurf typed:
I had suspected there might be a 'service engineer' menu hidden
somewhere, but had no idea how to find it. If you can explain how I
can find this and I can adjust the image size in the various modes,
it would be excellent. :-))

Here you go:-

Originally posted by

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WRITE DOWN ALL THE ORIGINAL VALUES BEFORE CHANGING ANYTHING. ADJUSTMENT
IS AT YOUR OWN RISK AND I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU
INFICT ON YOUR SET ARISING FROM THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
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Bass to max
treble to min
hold down "index"
press "-" (minus) on the front of the set.

this will get you into the service menu.(it will default to 16:9 mode
makes things a bit tricky for 4:3 geometry but it is possible)

coloured fastext buttons on the remote navigate left to right they a
back/forward/adjust up/adjust down : last two might be reversed but you
get the idea.

"STR" saves new value: if you modify a setting and don't press this then
the value will go back to its previous value when you move out of it.

"N" gets you out of the service menu.

settings are :

H-pos (horizontal position)
V-pos (vertical position)
H-amp (horizontal amplitude)
V-amp (vertical amplitude)
EW-amp1(EW-amplitude coarse pincushion looks like)
EW-amp2(EW-amplitude finer/corners looks like)
Trapez1(Trapezium comp_ suck it and see!)
Trapez2(finer of the above suck it and see!)
V-lin (vertical linearity)
V-sym (vertical symmetry used with above to sort vertical linearity !)

You can mess about with the above settings with impunity. They are all
fairly intuitive and relate to centring , overscan , geometry ,
linearity and are interactive with each other. However avoid going to
extremes on any settings (you won't need to anyway) as it might kick in
some sort of protection and collapse the picture (thin horizontal line)
which will probably burn the tube in about three seconds flat and you
will no longer be able to see the service
menu to undo your error!

The others are*these ones should not be played with*)

DVCO (take a guess at deflection voltage cut-off/correction??) : leave
it alone you need a PAL colour bar for it to auto adjust to. (more info
to follow )

Cut-off (cut-off DC leave well alone)
Ug2 (avoid like the plague)

Hi-light & lowlight (RGB cut-off and drive adjustments for colour temp:
leave alone unless you have a colour analyser handy and know a thing or
two about CIE chromaticity aims) "warm" seems close to 6500K anyway : I
intend to check grayscale tracking properly at some point.

Sub-brightness (pedestal black level: sets lowest point on the
brightness control basically)

I strongly suggest that you avoid adjusting any of the the ones above as
they are either very vague(technical) in their purpose or have the
possibility of damaging the set or both!

-------------------------------------
Some advice about adjustment.

Write down all the original values BEFORE you start adjusting things.
this is the only way to return to the original settings if you cock
things up.

Don't go to extremes on ANY setting. The settings are all interactive to
a certain extent.Proper adjustment involves ping-ponging back and forth
between adjustments to ensure you are not over-compensating for
something another setting is doing. Balance remember.

Use relevant test material (Video essentials is good but remember it may
not be 100% for a 625/50 image: its actually pretty close on the PK1 so
don't worry about it).

Make sure you are looking at the relevant input type before engaging the
service menu( on the PK it looks like one lot of settings applies to
everything: which is actually good in a way).

When adjusting geometry I initially center the image (H-pos V-pos) then
take off the overscan (V-amp H-amp) so I can see the edges of the image.
Get everything pucka geometry wise (make sure all edges are straight as
poss and the scan is linear (no bulgy distortion). Then put on the
overscan (H-amp V-amp equally) until things start to go out of kilter
(and they will) readjust for optimum and then more overscan etc until
satisfied.

Big tip: Use a ruler and or set-square (nice big ones) do not trust your
eyes with geometry issues.

Take your time: the geometry alone might take some time.(the concave 4:3
takes a bit of time to fix). You may not be able to get everything
perfect (trust me) but you should be able to improve the bowing problems
until its unobjectionable.

The more accurate the 16:9 adjustments are the more accurate the 4:3 is.
But you may still need to come out of the service mode to check those
nasty concave sides in 4:3 and pop back in to change a setting that
fixes it (without compromising the 16:9 mode at the same time!)

Properly set-up the PK1 kicks butt!